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Here are this weeks comments.
Note: All the William Fevre wines tasted for this report are “domaine” bottlings, from the estate’s 40 hectares of vines (98
Rare
2000 St Emilion!
It’s
hard to put into words the sense of place, pride and passion that
exists in places like St Emilion, unless you’ve experienced it
first hand. With thousands of tourists a day, St Emilion still
manages to keep its quaint historic feeling that puts you back in
time a few hundred years. Home to some of the most exotic and
expensive wines in the world the village remains as graceful and
understated as the producers that surround them. Enjoying a glass of
great wine from one of the greatest places in the world, can bring
back lots of wonderful memories. Priceless!
The 2000
vintage in St Emilion was one of the most monumental vintages of all
time and are definitely a rare commodity. We were confirmed on these
wines in fall of 2007 and after several attempts to track them down
we had nearly given up. Last week we finally tracked them down and
they are now in town and ready to be picked up! We will start
bringing them in next week!
ST
EMILION
It’s
easy to fall in love with the small village that is now so famous for
its wine. The hill village of St. Emilion is only a short distance
east of Bordeaux. Only a 45-minute drive across the Gironde River
elegant and cozy St. Emilion is built into a limestone hill, and its
cobblestone streets and ancient buildings look much like the hilltop
villages of St-Paul-de-Vence or Eze on the French Riviera. In the 8th
century, a hermit named Emilion settled in a small cave with an
underground spring. Over the next 500 years the cave was enlarged to
make the world's largest monolithic (one rock) cathedral. When you go
into the huge open room, it is hard to imagine that it was built
hundreds of years ago. No trip to St. Emilion is complete without
going inside this underground cathedral.
Surrounding
this historic village are some of the greatest wine producers in the
world. Saint-Emilion wines are renowned and enjoyed around the
world. Wine has always been of paramount importance to the town. Hard
work, draconian regulations and the ability to work together have
ensured Saint-Emilion's prosperity and independence through the
centuries. Wine flows in the town's veins... It is as much a part of
Saint-Emilion's image as its famous monuments…
Vines
grow all around the town: they are inseparable from the landscape and
seem to have sculptured it, providing infinite variety and character.
Châteaux and vineyards are everywhere. They reflect centuries
of history and generations of hard work. There is someone behind
every bunch of ripe, purple grapes, and behind every vine leaf.
2000
ST EMILION
St
Emilion’s from the monumental 2000 vintage are a very rare
commodity indeed. Only the incoming 2005 vintage compares, a very
rare buying opportunity! Quantities are very limited.
2000
SANCTUS SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU
Oct
1st Arrival - LIMITED - ONLY $59.97 BTL
This
luxury cuvee minuscule 9-acre parcel of La Bienfaisance vineyard,
planted on primarily clay and limestone soils, is treated differently
by the proprietor, receiving Burgundian winemaking techniques of
malolactic in barrel and aging sur-lie. It is bottled without
filtration. The blend is 70% Merlot and 30% Caberent Franc
Parker
# 146 (4/1/2003) : 90
Maturity: 2008-2018 An
imposing wine with high tannin but also equally high extract and
richness, the heady smorgasbord of aromas range from blackberries to
cassis to cherries, vanilla, coffee, and licorice. The wine is deep,
full-bodied, and powerful, with a lot of structure but also a lot of
sweetness. I would not touch a bottle for at least another 5-6 years.
Owner:
Famille Duval Fleury Administrator:
Patrick Baseden Manager:
Didier Peytour Vineyard
manager:
Didier Peytour Oenologist:
Aurelio Montes, Stéphane Derenoncourt Blend
of the 2000 vintage:
66% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Franc Ageing:
100% in new barrels Beginning
of the grape harvest:
Monday, September 25, 2000 End
of the grape harvest:
Tuesday, October 10, 2000 Area:
3 hectares Average
age of the vines:
36 years Yield:
32 hectolitres per hectare. This
special cuvée has been crafted from a selection from four
hectares of the estate with the finest chalky soils. The blend of 70%
Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc has benefited from specific operations
performed both during its vinification and its ageing. Upon
completion of the alcoholic fermentation, the wines are transferred
directly into new French oak barrels for their malolactic
fermentation. They are subsequently aged in the wood for 18 to 22
months, without any racking. These practices give the Sanctus its
remarkable mineral expression and its considerable cellaring
potential. The deep garnet red colour precedes the rich nose of very
ripe dark fruit, heralding the combination of powerfulness,
complexity, breed and elegance on the palate.
2000
CHATEAU LA COUSPAUDE SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU
Oct
1st Arrival - LIMITED - ONLY $79.97 BTL
Only
3000 cases a year are produced from a small 7 hectares vineyard. One
of the rare wine estates actually within the town of Saint Emilion.
La Couspaude is planted with the same grape varieties as the other
great wines of Saint-Emilion, and in similar proportions: a large
majority of Merlot (75%), as well as Cabernet Franc (15%) and
Cabernet Sauvignon (10%). It is this predominance of Merlot, much
more hardy than Cabernet, which accounts for the large number of old
vines and the impressive average age (40 years).
Review
by Robert Parker Wine Advocate
# 146 (Apr 2003) Rating: 92 Drink 2005 – 2016 “This is a
lavishly fruity, toasty, seductive wine with no hard edges. It
possesses terrific fat and a sweet, opulent, multi-layered style.
Possessing a dense ruby/purple color along with copious quantities of
black cherry liqueur, espresso, mineral, oak, and roasted nut
characteristics, this layered, voluptuous, full-throttle effort
should be drinkable in 2-3 years and last for 16+. A full-bodied
wine, it is sexy stuff.”
92
Points The Wine Spectator: “Serious wine. Loads of chocolate,
raspberry and cherry character. Full-bodied, with lots of vanilla and
reduced raspberry flavors. Long and caressing. Modern and exciting.
Best Couspaude I have ever tasted. Best after 2010. 3,330 cases
made.” –JS
Owner:
Jean-Claude Aubert Oenologist:
Michel Rolland Blend
of the 2000 vintage:
70% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc Ageing:
100% in new barrels during 18 month Area:
7 hectares Average
age of the vines:
30 years Density
of the vines:
6500 feet per hectare: Yield:
35 hectolitres per hectare Very
dark ruby color. Fabulously integrated nose of cassis, toast,
licorice, and vanilla. Off-sweet mouthfeel, slightly oaky and tight
at present, with a very long if oak-charged finish. Aroma score: A-
Taste score: B+ Overall score: A-
2000
CHATEAU BERLIQUET SAINT-EMILION
GRAND CRU
Oct
1st Arrival - LIMITED - ONLY $74.97 BTL
Review
by Robert Parker Wine Advocate
# 146 (Apr 2003) Rating: 90 Drink 2006 – 2020 “More of a
finesse-styled St.-Emilion than many other wines from this hotbed of
activity, the 2000 is the finest Berliquet yet produced. It exhibits
an impressive saturated ruby/purple color as well as jammy cherry and
cassis liqueur aromas, medium to full body, sweet tannin, a
multi-tiered mid-palate, and a long finish. An elegant wine, it is a
sleeper of the vintage.”
91
Points The Wine Spectator: “Plenty of crushed berry, with
flowers and hints of toasted oak. Full-bodied, with well-integrated
tannins and a round, creamy aftertaste. Modern and refined. Very
well-done for this château. Best after 2007. 2,500 cases made.”
–JS
CHATEAU
MONBOUSQUET SAINT-EMILION GRAND CRU
"Château
Monbousquet is located in the commune of St- Sulplice de Faleyrens in
the south-east part of the St-Emilion appellation. For years
Monbousquet was a notorious underachiever, whose wines were soft,
dilute and generally uninspiring. The catalyst for change came when
the property was bought by Parisian supermarket tycoon Gérard
Perse in 1993. Gérard, who now owns Château Pavie and
Château Pavie-Decesse, severely restricted the yields,
constructed a state of the art cuvier and hired the ubiquitous Michel
Rolland as a consultant. Monbousquet's wines are now amongst the
finest in St-Emilion. Monbousquet is a blend of 60% Merlot, 30%
Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The grapes are fermented
in temperature-controlled, stainless steel tanks and the wine is then
aged in 100% new oak barrels for 18 months. Monbousquet is bottled
unfined and unfiltered."
2000
CHATEAU MONBOUSQUET Oct 1st arrival!
$119.97 btl
Review
by Robert Parker Wine
Advocate
# 146 (Apr 2003) Rating: 95 Drink 2005 – 2018
“From an unheralded terroir, this Monbousquet was made from
extremely low yields of 28-30 hectoliters per hectare. Aged sur lie
and bottled unfined and unfiltered, it exemplifies proprietor Perse's
enormous efforts. Black and blue to the rim, this wine represents the
essence of this terroir. Its saturated black/purple color is
accompanied by extraordinary aromatics of sweet blackberries,
chocolate, coffee, incense, new saddle leather, and vanilla.
Remarkable intensity, lively acidity, and abundant tannin provide
definition and grip. This is the most intense, muscular, and
"biggest" Monbousquet made to date, and that is saying
something considering the 1998 and 1999! So be prepared, it is
remarkable wine.”
Jay Miller
11/2007 “This very rich course was paired with three vintages
of Chateau Monbousquet, a Gerard Perse estate. The 1999 is an early
maturing crowd-pleaser that is very up-front 92 points. The 2000,
from a great vintage, is far more backward and powerful and over the
long-term will be a far better wine 95 points.”
1999
CHATEAU MONBOUSQUET Oct 1st arrival!
$89.97 btl
Review
by Robert Parker Wine
Advocate
# 140 (Apr 2002) Rating: 94 Drink 2005 – 2017
“The dense ruby/purple-colored 1999 Monbousquet exhibits a
port-like bouquet of super-ripe black cherry and black currant fruit
intermixed with scents of coffee, tobacco, and vanilla. Tipping the
scales at a whopping 14% alcohol (extremely high for Bordeaux), this
wine, which spends 18 months in 100% new oak and is bottled unfined
and unfiltered, is a blend of 60% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10%
Cabernet Sauvignon. It was cropped at an amazingly low 30 hectoliters
per hectare. It possesses an amazing texture, a mid-palate that you
could get lost in, and a sensational 40-45 second finish. The exotic
aromas, incredible texture, and abundant fruit are reminiscent of
Pomerol's renowned micro-cuvee, Le Pin. The 1999 is even better from
bottle than it was from cask. It is a remarkable effort for the
vintage.”
2004
CHATEAU MONBOUSQUET in stock ! $59.97
Review
by Robert Parker Wine
Advocate
# 171 (Jun 2007) Rating: 90 Drink 2007 – 2021
“Monbousquet (Gerard Perse’s home estate) has fashioned
an elegant, medium-bodied 2004 exhibiting abundant amounts of sweet
black cherry fruit intermixed with black currant, licorice, and spice
box characteristics. Round, generous, and silky textured, it is the
most developed and forward Monbousquet produced in recent vintages.
There are just over 6,000 cases of this blend of 60% Merlot, 30%
Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink it over the next
12-14 years.”
Domaine
Alain Voge
Alain
Voge’s reputation runs deeper than the entire Rhone Valley. His
estate, for a few years now run by partner Albéric Mazoyer,
covers about 12 Hectares - and 70 parcels! - in the AOCs of Cornas,
St Peray, and St Joseph. His wines are some of the finest in the
world, and certainly some of the finest in the Northern Rhone.
Albéric, having spent 15 years as Chapoutier’s Cellar
Master and 20 years as one of Alain’s best friends, is more
than capable of carrying out the vision of this legendary figure who
vinified his first vintage in 1958. In fact, his own vision -
including the Organic and Biodynamic principles he instigated at
Chapoutier - takes Voge to the next level. Alain Voge is most well
known for his incredible Cornas. Yet the white wines crafted from
Marsanne are simply spectacular. A recent entry are the wines from St
Joseph, a plot of only about 1.5 Hectare. Voge achieved Wine
Spectator Top 100 status in 2008, for their 2004 Vieilles Vignes.
Consistently one of the top estates in Cornas, Alain Voge, who
survived a liver transplant in 1998, is now partnered with the
brilliant oenologist who worked for Michel Chapoutier, Alberic
Mazoyer. In fact, Chapoutier is one of Voge’s investors. Alain
Voge, who owns nearly 18 acres in Cornas, with some fabulous old vine
parcels in Chaillot and Combe, also has 15 acres in St.-Peray, where
he fashions one of that appellation’s finest dry whites, the
Chablis look-alike called Fleur de Crussol. - Robert Parker
2005
Voge, Alain - Cornas Cuvee Les Vieilles Fontaines
Reg
$140.00 Sale $114.97
95
points Plush, with a modern touch of mocha and incense leading the
way for thickly layered plum sauce, tobacco, fig paste and licorice
notes. The long, mouthfilling finish pumps out fruit and mineral
notes thanks to riveting acidity. - James Laube, Wine Spectator Wine
Spectator Insider
92
points ($133) Deep red. Seductively perfumed aromas of cherry-vanilla
and raspberry preserves are deepened by licorice and smoky herbs.
Very fresh in the mouth, with bright raspberry and kirsch flavors,
silky tannins and slow-building floral pastille character. Becomes
sweeter on the long, clinging finish, with the rich fruit completely
sucking up the tannins. - Josh Raynolds, International Wine Cellar
Issue 136 , January/February 2008
93
points A tiny cuvee of the finest wine, the Cornas Vieilles Fontaines
spends more time in small casks, 15-20% of which are new. A candidate
for the Cornas of the vintage, the 2005 Cornas Vieilles Fontaines
reveals some new oak along with copious quantities of blackberries,
spicy figs, and truffles. With huge body, high tannin, and a
marvelous finish, it should be at its finest between 2011-2027. -
Robert Parker, Wine Advocate Issue 175
2005
Domaine Alain Voge Cornas Cuvee Vieilles Vignes
Reg
$85.00 Sale $62.97
93
points Wine Spectator Really juicy, with red cherry, currant and
raspberry fruit layered with racy mineral and enticing floral notes.
Long and tangy on the finish, with great drive. Best from 2010
through 2023. 100 cases imported. –JM
90
Points Robert parker The full-bodied 2005 Cornas Vieilles Vignes
exhibits beautiful black fruit notes intermixed with notions of white
flowers, earth, figs, and pepper. Layered, rich, and impressively
endowed, it should be at its peak between 2011-2018. Consistently
one of the top estates in Cornas, Alain Voge, who survived a liver
transplant in 1998, is now partnered with the brilliant oenologist
who worked for Michel Chapoutier, Alberic Mazoyer. In fact,
Chapoutier is one of Voge’s investors. Alain Voge, who owns
nearly 18 acres in Cornas, with some fabulous old vine parcels in
Chaillot and Combe, also has 15 acres in St.-Peray, where he fashions
one of that appellation’s finest dry whites, the Chablis
look-alike called Fleur de Crussol. I was struck by how successful
all of the following offerings were.
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jan/Feb 08 ($84) Bright red.
Vibrant red berry and candied cherry aromas are complicated by anise,
dried violet and vanilla bean. Deep and sweet but focused, with fresh
red fruit flavors, supple tannins and a slow-building mocha quality.
Finishes with very good persistence and a lingering echo of
raspberry. You could easily drink this now. 90 points
2004
Domaine Alain Voge Cornas Cuvee Vieilles Vignes
Reg
$85.00 Sale $62.97
93
points #78 in the Top 100 of 2007: Really zesty, with lots of red
currant and bramble notes bouncing ahead of dark olive and sage
flavors. The structure is briary on the finish, with an encore of red
fruit and mouthwatering acidity. Drink now through 2017. 1,415 cases
made. –JM
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jan/Feb 07 Deep ruby. Sexy
blackberry and blackcurrant aromas complicated by exotic floral and
baking spice accents. Round, fleshy and sweet; the almost jammy dark
fruit flavors are complemented by smoked meat and licorice. Intense
and very long on the finish, which features very fine, lightly chewy
tannins. 91 points
2005
Domaine Alain Voge Les
Peyrouses - Cotes du Rhone
Reg
$20.00 Sale $14.97
Our
Côtes du Rhône “Les Peyrouses” originates in
granitic parcels in the northern part of the Rhône Valley. The
originality of the Syrah grapes located in their very first
birthtplace, perfectly expresses itself in this wine. Site: From the
flatter areas around Cornas. Grapes: 100% Syrah. Vinification:
Vinified in Stainless Steel deposits. Elevage: Aged about 14 months
in seasoned barriques. Notes: Only about 7,000 bottles produced. The
name means “Red Stones” in old French (think “pieres”
and “rouges”). Super clean, grapey, intense.
CHAVE
IS ONE OF THE RAREST AND MOST COLLECTIBLE WINES OF THE NORTHERN
RHONE: A MUST IN EVERY COLLECTION.
Your
Choice $239.97 btl.
(Very
Limited & In Stock)
Jean-Louis
Chave Hermitage White 2006
99
points | $240 | 200 cases imported | White
Intense,
rich and remarkably focused, this offers stunning purity of fruit,
such as Jonagold apple and Cavaillon melon, along with enticing
heather honey, roasted macadamia nut, orange blossom and dried
persimmon notes, all laid over a dense but brilliantly defined
palate. The nearly endless finish of beeswax and buttered brioche is
absolutely fantastic. Drink now, or hold for a decade. Perhaps the
best white produced here to date. Best after 2019. From
France.—J.M.
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jan/Feb 09 - Light gold color.
Strikingly complex, sexy bouquet of pear, floral honey, sweet butter,
anise, toasted grain and smoky minerals; reminds me of a top-notch
Meursault. Very rich, with creamy orchard fruit flavors supported by
a firm underpinning of minerals. The anise note gains power on the
finish, which strongly echoes the honey, anise and mineral qualities.
You could enjoy this immensely right now but I'd defer opening mine
for at least another decade or more. Anything else would be
vinfanticide. 95(+?) points
97
Points Robert Parker The bottled 2006 Hermitage blanc is remarkably
powerful (around 15% natural alcohol), and demonstrates the heights
white wine varietals reached in the northern Rhone in 2006. Its
sumptuous nose reminds me of a liqueur of white flowers intermixed
with notions of truffles, white peaches, honeysuckle, marmalade, and
crushed rocks. Dense, full-bodied, and super-powerful as well as
flowery, with razor-like focus, this magnificent white Hermitage
should drink well for 25-30 years.
Jean-Louis
Chave Hermitage White 2005
98
points | $240 | 200 cases imported | White
Dense
and packed, but amazingly bright at the same time, this offers dried
papaya and pineapple fruit backed by a paraffin note, with fresh
floral, white peach and heather honey notes. Then the long,
superstony finish takes over, and sails on nearly endlessly. This has
power, precision and refinement all together. Drink now through 2030.
1,200 cases made. –JM
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jan/Feb 08 - ($245) Pale gold.
Fabulously complex nose evokes honeyed pear, apricot, shiso leaf and
botanical herbs. Creamy orchard fruit flavors are firmed by juicy
minerality, becoming brighter and more bitter with air. This has the
texture of a serious red wine, offering dense, chewy pear, yellow
plum and peach skin flavors and picking up licorice and toasted nuts
on the long, sappy finish, which ends with a whiplash of smoky
minerals. Does this ever let up? An incredible young wine. 97 points
96
Points Robert Parker: The 2005 Hermitage blanc is an amazing effort
that defines the classic style of white Hermitage. It offers hints of
marzipan, roasted hazelnuts, quince, licorice, honeysuckle, citrus
oil, and wet stones. It is a superbly concentrated and powerful wine.
It should drink well for 30+ years.
Jean-Louis
Chave Hermitage White 2004
97
points | $240 | 200 cases imported | White
Very
rich, but cuts like a knife, with dried apricot, marzipan and wet
stone notes leading the way for richer flavors of candle wax,
heather, honey and white peach on the back end. The long, extremely
taut finish seems almost tannic; this is built for a long life. Try
now, or forget it in the cellar. Best after 2017. 1,500 cases made.
–JM
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jan/Feb 07 - Bright gold.
Intensely spicy pear, peach and apricot pit aromas, with a strong
suggestion of sweet butter. Round and weighty but at the same time
juicy, with focused peach and pear nectar flavors enlivened by exotic
spice and mineral notes and deepened by honey and fresh cream tones.
Gains in freshness with air, picking up strong mineral and tangy
citrus zest notes. "The 2005 will be more elegant," Chave
believes. 96 points
The
2004 Hermitage blanc, which hit 15% natural alcohol, is another
superb effort, continuing a succession of totally profound white
Hermitages from 2003, 2004, and 2005. As many readers know, this
small family producer has been making wine in Hermitage since 1481!
The 2004 (about 1000 cases) reveals a light gold color, terrific
finesse and elegance in spite of its enormous power, unctuosity, and
richness. Of course, it is not as honeyed as the otherworldly 2003
(which hit 16% natural alcohol) but it is an amazingly full-bodied,
powerful wine with pervasive honeysuckle, peach liqueur, and
nectarine notes intermixed with licorice, quince, and acacia flowers.
This is gorgeous wine which should evolve for 20-25 years.
Jean-Louis
Chave Hermitage Red 2006
95
points | $240 | Red
Offers
a remarkable combination of density and elegance, with a loamy,
cocoa-driven backdrop to the crushed plum, black cherry, incense and
iron notes. Long, silky tannins carry everything through the precise,
mouthwatering finish. No skipping a beat here. Best from 2010 through
2021. 2,500 cases made. –JM
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jan/Feb 09 - From "mostly
Beaume": Deeply smoky, with powerful red fruit flavors and zesty
minerality. Finishes with gentle grip and an echo of smoke. Cuvee #2:
Intensely spicy aromas and flavors of sweet red berries and tangy
minerality. Juicy and very fresh. Cuvee #3: Licorice, violet and
herbs on the nose, followed by deep, sweet black raspberry and
blackcurrant flavors. Firm tannins add grip. Cuvee #4: Exotically
perfumed, with a wild note of juniper and lush, creamy cassis and
blueberry flavors. Cuvee #5: Black raspberry, licorice and minerals,
with good acidity and fine tannins. The final wine should offer an
array of red and dark berry qualities, with impressive focus and firm
minerality. This will be more about fruit than structure, but will
nonetheless possess excellent finishing cut and clarity. 95-97
points.
96
Points Robert Parker: Superior to the 2007, the 2006 Hermitage
reminds me of Chave’s brilliant 1991. An incredibly subtle
perfume of black raspberries, creme de cassis, camphor, and acacia
flowers is followed by an elegant, concentrated wine with beautifully
integrated acidity, tannin, wood, and alcohol. This seamless,
gorgeously-proportioned, large-framed wine represents the definition
of finesse, elegance, and terroir. It will be drinkable in several
years, and should last for 20-25 years.
Tuscany’s
Greatest Producer: Fontodi
It’s
been a 10 years since we’ve landed Fontodi!
The
Fontodi estate is located in Panzano, almost at the center of the
Chianti Classico region. Like Felsina, which claims an Etruscan
origin for its name, Fontodi also has a long history; vines have been
cultivated here since the time of the Roman empire, and documents
prove there was vinification here as far back as the 16th Century, at
a farmhouse then referred to as Case Via. The current owners, the
Manetti family, also have many centuries of history in Chianti,
although not with viticulture. For three hundred years this family
has been renowned for the manufacture of terracotta, and it was not
until 1968 that the family decided to move into wine, with the
purchase of Fontodi. Few properties in Tuscany are as immaculately
tended, or produce such meticulously made wines, as Fontodi. A new
cellar was installed for the 1998 vintage.
2006
FLACCIANELLO "Toscana"
$99.97
btl @ $1099.00 cs
(Arrives
8/27/2009)
One
of Tuscany's standard bearers of pure Sangiovese expression. In an
ever widening trend many producers look to their indigenous varietals
for purity. Flaccianello has long been a top 100% Sangiovese wine. It
is made with the top selection of fruit from the estate's best
vineyards
96
points Robert Parker's Wine Advocate: "The 2006 Flaccianello
della Pieve (Sangiovese) is just as extraordinary as it was when I
tasted it from barrel. This spectacularly ripe and concentrated wine
reveals masses of dark cherries, plums, licorice, smoke, violets,
French oak and minerals that coat the palate with extraordinary
richness. The wine possesses plenty of structure, but the sheer
density of the fruit provides stunning balance. The 2006 Flaccianello
is one of the more primary wines of the vintage, and it will require
considerable patience. Flaccianello continues to prove that Panzano’s
Conca d’Oro is one of the most privileged spots for Sangiovese
in Tuscany. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026."
2004
CHIANTI CLASSICO RISERVA "Cru Sorbo" $59.97 btl @ $699.00
cs
(Arrives
8/27/2009)
Sorbo
is made with fruit grown in the Vigna del Sorbo vineyard. The vines
are 25 years old, and the vineyard is situated at an altitude of 400
metres above sea level and faces south/south-west. Fontodi
Vigna del Sorbo '04 out performed the giants of Tuscany: Solaia,
Tignanello, Grattamacco, Galatrona, Ornellaia and Masseto. The just
released Issue of the Wine Advocate gave its highest rating to
Fontodi's Single Cru Vineyard 2004 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva
Vigna del Sorbo. We're not surprised. Vigna del Sorbo will never
disappoint... still, there are Vintages when the wine will rise above
the rest. The 2004 Vigna del Sorbo is that type of wine. A wine that
is true star quality and will cellar out with the best reds made.The
2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo is an explosive wine
endowed with a layered, sumptuous expression of sweet dark fruit.
Menthol, licorice and floral overtones develop in the glass, adding
further complexity. This stunningly beautiful wine offers tremendous
persistence yet it will require patience as its structural components
are formidable. Simply put, 2004 is a phenomenal vintage for this
wine. Vigna del Sorbo is made from 80% Sangiovese and 20% Cabernet
Sauvignon which was grafted onto the rootstocks of the white
varieties that were previously planted in the vineyard. Anticipated
maturity: 2012-2024
2004
Giuseppe Rinaldi Barolo Brunate le Coste
Very
Limited - $114.97 btl!
Review
by Antonio Galloni Wine
Advocate # 179 (Oct 2008)
Rating: 96+ Drink 2012 – 2029 Cost: $116-$120
Rinaldi’s
2004 Barolo Brunate/Le Coste has been special every time I have
tasted it over the last few years. Profoundly expressive balsamic
aromas jump out of the glass, leading to layers of seductive perfumed
dark fruit that continue to unfold as the wine sits in the glass.
This is a truly majestic Barolo. It possesses superb weight and
density in a finely-textured yet powerful style. The tannins are firm
yet incredibly refined. Readers will not want to miss this
exceptional wine. “Beppe” Rinaldi is one of Piedmont’s
most iconic producers. Historically his bottles have been hard to
find because they are mostly sold to private individuals rather than
the trade, meaning that large lots are nearly impossible to come by.
These are among the most natural, unmanipulated wines being made
anywhere. At times past vintages have shown some rough edges and
excessive amount of volatile acidity, but those traits seem to belong
to the past, as today’s wines are cleaner and better made. My
recent visit was illuminating as I tasted everything in barrel from
vintages 2004 through 2007. The rigorously traditional style is alive
and well in these cellars. The wines are fermented in an open-top
wood vat using natural yeasts. Temperature is not mechanically
controlled. The wines see a longish fermentation/maceration and are
aged in cask. Although Rinaldi has changed out a few barrels
recently, the only concession to anything resembling modernity is an
old-fashioned rotary telephone, which seems to genuinely annoy him
each time it rings. Yields here have never been particularly low but
the trend towards warmer growing seasons has resulted in beautifully
ripe and fragrant fruit, particularly in recent years. One of things
I admire most about Rinaldi is that he just goes about his business
as he always has. He doesn’t give a hoot what I, or anyone else
for that matter, thinks about his wines, and that suits him just
fine. Prices have barely budged since I began visiting years ago.
Rinaldi told me he thought generally pricing had gone out of hand.
“It is, after all, just wine,” he said.
Rare
& Incredible Domaine William Fevre Chablis’
For
drinkers of American Chardonnays, the obvious charm of Chablis can be
elusive. For one, the wines typically have no new oak, a flavor often
associated with Chardonnay. Lacking toast, vanilla, and spice from
barrels, Chablis relies on the native flavors of the Chardonnay
grape. These—bright green apple, pear, lemon—may be
unfamiliar to most American palates, which are used to Chardonnays
produced in hotter places and taste of melon, pineapple, banana, and
crème brûlée. And finally, all good Chablis is
underlaid with a firm texture of minerality, that sensation of
dissolved minerals that gives the wines a pebbly, grainy feel, as
well as a firm yet pliant structure. Put together in a typically
pale, yellow-green wine, a good Chablis might occasionally be missing
the direct punch of massive fruit and body that some people expect
from Chardonnay. The light flavors, delicate structure, and defining
minerality of Chablis are subtle and ephemera.
The
rapidity with which Joseph Henriot turned around this once moribund
estate is remarkable. Under the supervision and winemaking of
super-talented Didier Seguier (from Cucq-Les-Vielmur in France’s
southwest, near Castres), Domaine William Fevre has been catapulted
into the top echelon of Chablis’s producers (and if you don’t
believe me, just ask Vincent Dauvissat or Bernard Raveneau).
The
village of Chablis gives its name to one of the most famous white
wine in France. Chablis is located at the north of the Burgundy
region.
Chablis
wine is made of Chardonnay grape. Chardonnay grow on a limestone
soil rich with fossils and specially oysters. A long time ago, a sea
covered Burgundy and Chablis. Chablis wine is brisk and fruity, very
dry and with a refreshing acidity. In the nose, there are flavors of
green apple and lemon. In the mouth Chablis delivers aromas of
vanilla, lemon and linden. When older, Chablis has a golden color and
is more spicy. Chablis is recommended with grilled fish but is also a
good companion with white meat and even curry or tandoori.
The
Fèvre wines are wonderful examples of this classic region and
for those that seek pure, precise, refreshing, energetic and exciting
wine, this is a very much a domaine for you to follow.
2007
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Les Clos $119.00
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 09 “Bright, pale
yellow-green. Compellingly aromatic nose offers lime oil, ginger and
crushed rock. Sharply delineated if quite backward today, projecting
great purity, intensity and energy. Compared to the Preuses this is
showing less volume but more energy, with an even higher pitch to its
aromas and flavors. My style of Clos! The rising finish really dances
on the palate. Give this one at least five years in the cellar.”
95(+?) points
2007
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Bougros Cote Bouguerots $99.00
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 09 “Green-tinged
yellow. Steely aromas of lime, ginger, crushed stone and menthol.
Densely packed, rocky and closed but not at all hard, with a tactile,
saline texture and impressive volume for the year. This spicy, stony
grand cru really spreads out to saturate the palate on the back end.”
94(+?) points
2007
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Les Preuses $99.00
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 09 “Bright, pale
yellow-green. Knockout nose combines lime, metallic minerality and
powdered stone. Wonderfully concentrated Preuses, offering a
compelling combination of bracing citrus and mineral flavors and
outstanding richness (the former coming from the southeast-facing
vines and the latter from those facing west, notes director Stephane
Follin-Arbelet). Wonderfully pure wine, finishing with outstanding
cut, lift and length.” 94 points
2007
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Vaudesir $99.00
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 09 Pale, “Bright
yellow. Discreet, very pure aromas of lemon, crushed stone, white
pepper and flowers. Highly concentrated, supple and silky, with
lovely deep minerality giving this wine another dimension and
contributing to its impression of personality. This very rich and
tactile wine finishes with terrific cut and a distinctly saline
quality that's supported by fresh citrus fruit. A perfect example of
the way a normally warmer terroir can outperform in a cool year.”
93 points
2007
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Valmur $99.00
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 09 “Pale
yellow-green. Ripe aromas of peach and spice, with hints of exotic
fruits. Sweet, dense and spicy, with a very firm acid spine
currently keeping the wine's fruit in check. There's a silkiness of
texture here, but I find this a bit youthfully disjointed today.
Perhaps less pristine than the 2008 version but long on the finish.
This needs time to harmonize.” 92(+?) points
2006
William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte de Bouguerots:
$89.00
Review
by David Schildknecht Wine
Advocate # 179 (Oct 2008)
Rating: (94-95) “From this
cru’s steep, riverside slopes, the Fevre 2006 Chablis Bougros
Cote de Bouguerots reveals its oak in lanolin, toasted almond, and
spice aromas, along with notes of chalk dust, sweet lime, and heady,
lily-like floral perfume. With enveloping richness, luscious
juiciness, and flattering creaminess, yet underlain by a vivid sense
of crushed stone, this saturates the palate so completely and
intensely and with such a palpable sense of extract, that the
finishing stain seems almost severe. This remarkably concentrated and
polished wine should be worth following for 15 or more years. The
2005, too, is superb.”
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 08 “Pure, reticent
nose hints at crushed stone and exotic fruits. Wonderfully dense and
tactile in the mouth, with captivating, soil-driven flavors of dried
fruits, citrus peel, stone and hazelnut, along with a toasty nuance.
The faintly exotic character carries through in the mouth: I was
reminded both of Corton-Charlemagne and noble rot. Fascinating wine,
finishing with outstanding breadth.” 94 points
2006 Domaine
William Fevre Chablis les Preuses $89.00
Review
by David Schildknecht Wine
Advocate # 179 (Oct 2008)
Rating: (93-94) “Fevre owns
or controls nearly one quarter of the acreage in Preuses. Their 2006
Chablis Preuses marries fruit from a southeast-facing parcel just
above the Cote de Bouguerots and conducive to “cool”
fruit and overt minerality, with a southwest-facing parcel inherently
inclined toward richness that was harvested at hugely high ripeness
even before this year’s ban de vendange. From its aroma through
its impressively dense and expansive palate display, through its
lingering finish, this sensually extravagant expression of Preuses
(in a manner distinctly reminiscent of Vincent Dauvissat’s) is
totally suffused with the savory salinity and sweetness of shrimp and
lobster shell reduction. White peach and lime occupy a discreet
position, iris and lily a more prominent one, wafting alluringly
throughout. This silken-textured beauty should be worth holding for a
dozen or more years.”
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 08 “Pale
yellow-green. Very ripe aromas of yellow peach, pepper and spices;
far less intellectual than the Valmur. Plump, sweet and easygoing,
with full ripeness and a suggestion of slightly elevated alcohol.
This is more aggressive than some of the other grand crus here but
offers the advantage of earlier approachability. This fruit was
obviously very ripe: the team picked it on September 14, two days
before the ban In fact, I happened to be at William Fevre that
morning in 2006 and recall tasting the grapes as they went into the
vat.” 92 points
2006 Domaine
William Fevre Chablis Valmur $89.00
Review
by David Schildknecht Wine
Advocate # 179 (Oct 2008)
Rating: (92-93) “Fevre’s
2006 Chablis Valmur represents a dramatically different expression of
Chablis character from the Vaudesir. Peony, musk, marzipan, and
candied lime are the key notes (along with hints of lanolin and
spice) in this rich, sweetly-perfumed,
almost confectionary wine. As with the corresponding Bougros, this
exhibits an uncanny sense of lift and near-delicacy for all of its
creaminess and amplitude. The pure, long finish is almost ethereal in
its suggestions of heady flowers and delicate mineral shadings. This
may well be the sort of Chablis some growers and critics have in mind
when they say (as if that were to denigrate the wine) “tastes
like Cote d’Or,” but if so (and I disagree with the
characterization, anyway), I say “bring on more of the same!”
Precisely the dramatic range of expression of which Chablis is
capable even in a single vintage – and which this year’s
Fevre collection so faithfully illustrates – is one of this
region’s great strengths.
Perhaps this Valmur should be drunk within a decade – a little
sooner than some of the other Fevre 2006 crus – but I am sure
only time will tell.”
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 08 “Pale,
green-tinged yellow. Highly nuanced nose combines lime, licorice,
stone and minerals. Densely packed and tight, but with compellingly
ripe flavors of golden apple and pineapple leavening the wine's more
strict mineral and citric side. Finishes with a wonderfully pliant
texture and superb persistence, leaving behind a scent of menthol in
the empty glass. For the connoisseur, notes director Follin-Arbelet.”
94 points
2006 Domaine
William Fevre Chablis Vaudesir $89.00
Review
by David Schildknecht Wine
Advocate # 179 (Oct 2008)
Rating: (90-91+) “The Fevre
2006 Chablis Vaudesir projects lemon and herbs along with a
strikingly saline, chicken stock-like character such as only Chablis
from among the world’s wines can display. Despite its
impressive amplitude and high but flattering fat content, this isn’t
expressing overtly ripe or tropical fruits, but instead hammers home
the messages of meat and minerals, along with an equally unexpected
severity of bright citrus in the finish. Is this impressively
concentrated and intriguingly mysterious wine just in an awkward
stage, I wonder?”
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 08 “Pale,
green-tinged color. Locked up on the nose today, hinting at powdered
stone and lime. Then dense, ripe and quite dry, inexpressive today
but with strong fruit lurking. Sweeter on the back end and nicely
broad, pliant and long. This needs patience.” 91(+?) points
2005
Domaine
William Fevre Chablis
“Les Clos” $119.00
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07 “Pale green
color. Pure but subdued aromas of lemon-lime and crushed stone.
Intensely flavored and youthfully tight, offering sharply delineated
citrus fruit, white peach and crushed stone elements. In a cooler
style for the vintage, with just the slightest exotic hint to show
that it's from a very warm year. The very long, rising finish
displays uncommon precision for the vintage. But the young 2006
appears to be even longer and more minerally.” 94(+?) points
2005
William Fevre Chablis Grand Cru Bougros Côte de Bouguerots:
$89.00
Bouguerots
is a sub region within Bougros where the classic Kimmeridgean soil is
at its most pure. Classic nose of gunsmoke and flint. Really classy,
showing the extra dimension one would expect at top Grand Cru level.
Smooth, ripe and rounded notes of hay and straw. Lovely balance and
poise.
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07 “Pale,
green-tinged color. Subtle, precise aromas of lime, quinine and
minerals. Broad, rich and dry but with terrific grip and an
impression of weightlessness. The complex flavors of powdered stone,
minerals, lime blossom and citrus peel resemble those of the young
'06. Superb classic Chablis with a rising finish and lovely
minerality. Winemaker Didier Seguier gives the edge to the '06,
though, for its greater purity.” 93 points
“A
deft touch of pain grillé
showcases more elegant and more refined green fruit and shell fish
nuances that can also be found on the nervous, intense, focused and
seriously powerful medium full flavors that ooze dry extract on the
almost painfully punchy finish. However, there is so much buffering
fat that this remains beautifully well balanced and should age very
well. 92-94” Allen Meadows Burghound
2005
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Bougros $79.00
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Jul/Aug 07 “Musky aromas
of citrus fruits and gunflint. Fresh, fruity and concentrated if a
bit youthfully subdued today. In a gentle, rounder style but with
good spicy definition. Is this as dense as the '06?” 92 points
“This
too displays a discreet touch of wood with citrus, oyster shell and
algae notes that merge into big, muscular and robust flavors that are
quite rich but not heavy or rustic, all wrapped in a sappy and palate
staining finish. This is more mineral than usual as well,
particularly in the context of the vintage. 91-93” Allen
Meadows Burghound
2005
William Fevre Chablis 1er
Cru Fourchaume Vignoble de Vaulorent $59.00
A
sub section of the Fourchaume vineyard and always a real stand out in
the range. Boasts a true sense of power, scale and complexity.
Precise, pure, defined and elegant with a great finish. Outstanding.
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Nov/Dec 06 “A selection of
the best parcels made after the elevage; both this and the regular
Fourchaume bottling saw about 50% barriques, but no new barrels)
Bright, pale color, less green than the regular bottling. Richer,
riper nose suggests lemon, menthol, white flowers and hazelnut.
Silky, broad and rich without being at all heavy, thanks to firm
minerality. Sweeter and creamier than the Fourchaume, with a volume
and structure approaching that of a grand cru. Finishes broad and
long. Perhaps the most Cote d'Or-like of these 2005s in its sheer
richness.” 92 points
“A
superbly elegant nose of white flowers and citrus that is perfumed,
stylish, high-toned and pure combines with round, precise, intense
and strikingly detailed flavors that are quite powerful yet focused
and rather linear at present. As Séguier suggests, this is
easily of grand cru
quality and by far and away the best 1er among these '05s. 91-94”
Allen Meadows Burghound
2005
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Fourchaume $45.00
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Nov/Dec 06 “Pale,
green-tinged color. Clean, tight nose suggests citrus and mint. Then
sweet, open and expressive in the mouth, with a penetrating quality
to the citrus flavors. Not at all a honeyed style of Fourchaume, and
very fresh for the year, even if it's less minerally than the Montee
de Tonnerre. Finishes with impressive volume and sneaky length.
Fevre's holding is a large one, at 3.6 hectares, and entirely in
Vaulorent.” 91 points
“A
very ripe but still classic Fourchaume nose of green fruit, oyster
shell and sea breeze highlights full-bodied yet impeccably precise
and detailed full-bodied flavors that possess ample dry extract and
stunning length. This is presently quite cool and reserved yet the
underlying material is undeniable. Impressive 91-94” Allen
Meadows Burghound
2005
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Montmains $40.00
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Nov/Dec 06 “Pale,
green-tinged color. Enticing aromas of lime and mint. Juicy, sweet
and easygoing, with an enveloping attack and lovely inner-palate
sweetness of citrus and pineapple fruit. Elegant, lacy wine that
remains quite supple despite its firm mineral spine. Thanks to its
early appeal, this is a very popular restaurant wine in France, says
director Stephane Follin-Arbelet, who noted that Fevre owns parcels
in all three climats of Montmains, with Butteaux bringing mineral
character, Foret elegance and Montmains fat and richness.” 89
points
“A
completely different nose that is floral and subtly spicy with
reserved, refined and also exceptionally fresh and bright flavors
that are textured and concentrated, all wrapped around a firm acid
spine. This is really a lovely wine fashioned in an understated style
with excellent length and plenty of finishing citrus notes. 91-94”
Allen Meadows Burghound
2004 Domaine
William Fevre Chablis les Preuses $89.00
Review
by Pierre Rovani Wine
Advocate #165 (Jun 2006) Rating:
94 points “Drink 2007-2014. The 2004 Chablis Les Preuses
(domaine) reveals a nose of intense purity. Its aromas of gravel,
stones, candied citrus fruits, pears, and hints of toast lead to a
crystalline, medium-bodied character. This feminine effort’s
broad personality is filled with minerals, stones, iodine, and fresh
herbs whose flavors linger in its amazingly long, detailed finish.”
Stephen
Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Nov/Dec 06 “Lemon, spice,
anise and hazelnut on the complex nose, along with a suggestion of
oyster shell. Then densely packed and sweet, with superb energy and
cut. There's an almost iodiney reserve here, and yet the wine is
almost accessible today owing to its juicy sweetness of fruit and
silky texture. Very elegantly styled Chablis, less minerally and
austere than the Valmur but with compelling richness for the
vintage.” 93 points
2004
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Fourchaume $45.00
“Sea
air and citrus on nose; tight, solid, rich, essence of lemon and
cream on mid-palate; medium plus creamy finish, should age quite
well.” 93 points Consumer
2004
Domaine William Fevre Chablis Montmains $40.00
Rating:
89 points Producer: Domaine William Fevre From: Montmains, Chablis,
Burgundy, France Variety: Chardonnay (a dry white table wine) Drink:
2006-2011 Source: Wine
Advocate #165 (Jun 2006) “Medium-bodied
and unleashing citrus-laced aromas, the 2004 Chablis Montmains
(domaine) displays a personality of precision and depth. Broad on the
attack, it offers lemon-lime flavors in a focused, well-crafted
flavor profile. Drink it over the next 5 years.”
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